Kale is a common leafy green that has seen rise in recent media and nutrition needs. Kale is high in vitamins and minerals with the added benefit of lower calories. Kale usually has a slightly bitter taste that is enjoyed primarily in salads.
Kale is a cool season crop meaning that once temperatures reach above 70F the crop will “bolt” meaning the plant will go to seed and lose its coveted flavor. Kale also needs the frost to increase its sugar content within the leaves to taste sweeter. If you prefer more bitter flavors then let your kale grow to full maturity. Spring and Early Fall is the best time to grow Kale. Like most Leafy Greens, Kale prefers Full sun to Partial Shade Light Requirements. Refer to the seed packet for specific planting instructions, but about six inches between plantings is a good general rule of thumb. Thinning will need to be done once plants reach maturity. You must also put into perspective your end goal. Do you want to use kale for salads or juicing? You will need to grow kale from seed to get the smaller baby leaves that are suitable. To do this continuously throughout your growing season. You will need to stagger your plantings. Sow new seeds every two to four weeks, harvesting when the plants are four to six inches tall.
Harvesting will depend on preference like with most leafy greens. Baby kale can be harvested within 20 to 30 days. Mature leaves will be harvested around 50-75 days after seeding. Frosty and cold weather can influence the flavor and provide a sweeter taste. Fresh greens can be stored for up to a week in the refrigerator. There are select varieties that can be recommended for NC. Improved Dwarf Siberian, Red Russian, Redbor Hybrid, and Toscano. Many of these varieties are curly leaves that can persevere through the colder temps of fall. Red Russian does great as far as cold hardiness goes. Toscano is the least cold hardy and might need some kind of frost protection such as row cover or cold frame.
Fertilizer and other Amendments can be added but only per a soil test. It’s always good to be aware of what your soil needs as opposed to just adding what you think it needs. There are certainly indicators like yellowing of the leaves, which as many know is indicative of a nitrogen deficiency. This is one instance where it is acceptable to add fertilizer without a test. Something simple like a 4-3-4 fertilizer may improve yellowing symptoms over time. Remember Don’t Guess: Soil Test
