Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. Today, we are going to discuss the issue of “Bitter Rot.”

Bitter Rot is a fungus that generally affects pome fruits like apples and pears but can affect other plants such as peaches, grapes, blueberries, strawberries, peppers, and more. Symptoms start to appear in July and can persist all the way through post-harvest. Bitter rot starts off as small, circular, sunken spots on the fruit that enlarge, turn dark, and develop concentric rings. When the fruit is cut open, there will be a distinctive V-shaped, brown, watery lesion that moves toward the core of the fruit.

This fungus can persist year to year by overwintering in dead fruit, dead wood, and plant debris. Bitter Rot thrives in warm and humid temperatures and moves via rain, wind, insects, and birds. There are several cultural strategies you can use to manage Bitter Rot such as pruning dead and diseased tissues from plants, removing dead fruit from the ground, and ensuring proper fertilization, watering, and pruning of plants. Chemical controls can be utilized through a 7-10 day fungicide spray program throughout high-risk periods. Contact Burke County Cooperative Extension for specific fungicides to use.

This has been Tanner Collier, with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.

Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. I’m going to share some tips with you today about “Harvesting Ripe Watermelons.”

As we are in the heat of summer, you may be looking to harvest a delicious, juicy watermelon to enjoy. This can be a tricky task if you don’t know the signs of when a watermelon is ripe. But don’t worry. Look for these signs when you are about to pick your next snack.

Look at the field spot of the watermelon first. This is the part that has been laying on the ground. A ripe watermelon will have a large field spot with a creamy yellow color. The bigger the spot and the creamier the color, the riper the melon. Also, look at the tendril on the vine closest to the watermelon. If the tendril is brown, this is a good indicator that the melon is ripe.

Ripe watermelons should have a dull-colored rind compared to other watermelons. Underripe melons will be shiny and glisten in the sun. Ripe watermelons will also be heavier than under ripe melons. The heavier the melon, the juicier it will be.

Lastly, listen to the sound the melon makes when you thump it. This can help indicate how ripe it is. A ripe watermelon should make a deep, thudding sound. If you hear more of a hollow sound, this may mean that the watermelon is overripe.

This has been Tanner Collier with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information, you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.

Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. Our program today is about “Blossom Drop.”

As the growing season continues, people may notice an odd occurrence happening with their plants. The plants look healthy and lush, but the flowers die, fall off, and no fruit forms. This condition is called blossom drop. Blossom drop commonly occurs in tomatoes, beans, peppers, and various other garden plants. Blossom drop can be caused by several factors, such as high temperatures, excessive nitrogen fertilizer, and windy conditions.

Do not over-apply nitrogen to your plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when needed. Blossom drop is not caused by a nutrient deficiency, so applying additional fertilizer will not help. Remember, more fertilizer does not necessarily mean a healthier plant.

Air temperature is the main cause of blossom drop. When nighttime temperatures are warmer than 75 degrees or cooler than 55 degrees, blossoms may start to fall off. Daytime temperatures of 90 degrees and above can also cause blossom drop.

There are a few things you can do to help prevent blossoms from falling off. Mulching around your plants can help retain moisture in the soil. Windbreaks can also help protect your plants from constant, strong winds. Ultimately, it is best to play the waiting game until the weather changes to more favorable conditions.

This has been Tanner Collier with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information, you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.

Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. Our program today is about “Powdery Mildew.”

As you walk through your flower or vegetable gardens, have you ever seen white, powdery spots on the leaves of your plants? This is powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungus that affects various types of plants, from crape myrtles and roses to squash and cucumbers. It starts as spores that float through the air, and they thrive in high-humidity environments. Powdery mildew is at its peak when day temperatures are warm and night temperatures are cool. You might be asking, “Will this make my plants die?” Typically, powdery mildew will not kill the plant, but it does affect the appearance and yield of it.

There are several cultural practices you can use to help prevent powdery mildew from forming. Proper plant spacing, increasing airflow through pruning, and avoiding excess water on foliage will help reduce humidity and, in turn, reduce powdery mildew. You can also select powdery mildew-resistant plants to put in your gardens. If you see powdery mildew on your plants, remove the infected parts and discard them. Be sure to remove all infected tissues from your garden because powdery mildew can overwinter. Fungicides can be used to protect healthy plants from powdery mildew, but they have little curative action. Make sure you read the label on the fungicide and follow the instructions. Remember, THE LABEL IS THE LAW!

This has been Tanner Collier with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information, you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.

Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. Our program today is about “Blossom End Rot.”

As our plants start baring fruit and maturing, do you have any that are turning brown and shriveling at the end farthest from the stem? If you do, this is Blossom End Rot. Blossom End Rot generally affects tomatoes, peppers, watermelon, squash, and various other cucurbits. When you see this, it is best to pick these fruits off the plant and discard them. You can not save them from this. Now you might be asking yourself, “Why does this happen?” Blossom End Rot is caused by a deficiency of calcium in your soil. Consider doing a soil test to determine what your nutrient and pH levels are within your garden.

Lime can be used to help amend soils with low calcium. This should only be done if your pH levels need to be brought up. Your soil test will recommend how much you need to apply. If your pH is at the correct level, gypsum can be used to increase calcium without affecting pH. Gypsum can be used at a rate of 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet in your garden. Generally, you want to apply both lime and gypsum in the fall or during your garden's resting period. If applied right before or during the planting season, Blossom End Rot will still occur because the amendments did not have enough time to take effect.

Take a look at your garden today and see if you find Blossom End Rot. If you do, it might be time to do a soil test. Remember, you do your best when you soil test!

This has been Tanner Collier, with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.

Hello, this is Tanner Collier, the Horticulture Agent with Burke County Cooperative Extension. Our program today is about “Groundhogs in the Garden”.

Have you ever had a pesky groundhog munching on your vegetables in your garden? I know I have and this can be very frustrating, especially when beautiful fruits are hanging from your plants. You might be thinking, “How do I know if I have groundhogs in my garden?” There are several signs that groundhogs are present such as tunnels and holes dug in the ground or under fences, chew marks on plants and fruits, and fruits and plants that have completely disappeared. If you see these signs and or see one with your own eyes, don’t call it quits. There are several ways to prevent groundhogs from coming into the garden. Harvesting your crops and removing fallen fruits as soon as possible will diminish their food source. Fencing is also a great way to exclude groundhogs. Fences should be 3-4 feet tall, with a 45 degree angle at the top, and be buried at least 12-14 inches deep. Electric fences are highly recommended to help deter groundhogs. Filling in preexisting holes and tunnels will also help deter groundhogs from your garden. Lastly, hunting groundhogs can be an option as there is no closed season or bag limit for them. Remember, it is illegal to relocate groundhogs to another area. If you have groundhogs currently on your property, contact our local Wildlife Damage Control Agent to have your situation assessed and to provide solutions.

This has been Tanner Collier, with Burke County Cooperative Extension. If you have any questions or want more information you can contact us at (828) 764-9480.